Top 5 Pool Pump Problems

Top 5 Pool Pump Problems Pump problems The pump is one of the most important parts of your pool's plumbing system. It is responsible for creating pressure in your pool, which forces the water to flow through the filter. Think of it as the heart of your swimming pool and without a filter pump your pool will rapidly become a pond of scum. Unfortunately sometimes your pool pump will not work due to one of many issues that might occur. In this article. #1 The pump does pull water. If your pump is not moving water you first want to check the skimmer and pump baskets and make sure they are empty as not to restrict water flow. Next make sure your pool filter is clean. Once you have checked these, you may want to check the pump impeller. This is the part in the pump that is connected to the motor that moves the water. Impellers will clog from time to time, especially during the springtime. To inspect the impeller, you will need to open the pump, to see inside of the impeller housing or volute. One of the major causes for pump suction loss is an air leak in the suction line. The suction line is where the pump gets supplied with the water from the pool. You will know this may be the issue if your pump will not catch prime. Prime is when your pump is running at full capacity. A pump is designed to suck water, but it can and will suck air if given the chance. Air has less mass than water, so a pump will suck air before it will suck water. If you think you have an air leak, see #5 below. #2 The pump is leaking water go-kits for pool pumps If you see a pump leaking water it will be on what we call the pressure side. This is after the pump lint pot ( the pot and anything before is not under positive pressure but rather negative pressure or suction and will not leak but try to draw in air see #1). The causes for a leak can be a bad impeller housing o ring, bad shaft seal, or bad thread sealant or shrunken threads on the plumbing discharge pipe, or the pipe that comes out of the pump. If it is an o ring or seal it is best to get what they call a Go Kit, which has every seal and oring in the pump, in one kit. I always say, if you are going to take the pump apart, you might as well replace all the seals. Pool Pump Go-Kits cost about $20, depending on the pump model and are cheaper than buying all the seals one by one. #3 The motor will not work or turns off after time.pool pump motor capacitor There can be many things that can cause this issue. You want to start by checking for power to the motor. Check your breaker and make sure your timer is set to turn on the pump. If you are getting power, the next thing to check for is sounds. Can you hear the motor hum or can you hear a click? A humming motor can mean it is the capacitor. Think of the capacitor as a battery (looks like one too) that jumps the motor to start spinning. A capacitor stores up a quick jolt of electricity to start the motor. They can be located in the back of the motor housing or in a hump on the top or side of the unit. If your motor runs but turns itself off after a time, it may be over-heating. Pool pumps use a lot of wattage and need a constant supply. If it is in the middle of a hot day and everyone in your neighborhood has the AC on high there may be a drop of power causing the motor to overheat. Not much you can do at that point but maybe run your pump at night when it is cooler. The second leading cause for this is motor fan failure or vent blockage. On the underside of the motor are vents that can get clogged up with dirt and leaves.pool motor cover Make sure you do not have dirt build up and keep them open and clear. I have run across cases where was just plain old sun light causing the motor to overheat. This is common in the south west and I would recommend getting a motor cover to keep the sun at bay. #4 The motor/pump is making a loud noise. Everyone (and their neighbors) hates a loud swimming pool pump. If your pump is loud, the first thing to do is to listen to it. What kind of sound does it make? If it sounds like there are rocks in it, this can be from it vibrating on the pad it sits on, or it could be cavitation. A piece of rubber mat under it might help to stop the noise. If that is not the case, it may be cavitation. Cavitation happens when the pump cannot get enough water fast enough, or the pump is "starved for water". The pump impeller is spinning too fast with not enough water and starts to beat the air molecules out of the water. If you didn't just install an oversize pump, you will want to check the lines for a clog, or a closed valve. In some cases it may be a clogged filter or impeller. Clear out any obstructions and you should be fine. Now if you pump is screaming (this is what sets off the neighbors) your motor may need new bearings. Bearings are mounted on the pool motor bearings pool motor shaft inside the motor to help reduce the friction as the electro magnates make the motor shaft spin. This is a high wear and tear item within the motor. Although the bearings are cheap (about $15) the labor is intensive. Most motors have 2 different sizes in them and usually take special bearing pullers to remove them. I always recommend taking the motor to a shop and for about $100 you can get a motor refurbished. #5 The motor/pump is sucking in air. Pool pumps are supposed to be air tight. With a clear pump lid, you "should" see no air in the pump basket. This is rarely the case however, small air leaks are common. When the air leak gets too large, however, it can create problems with circulation or keeping the pump primed. The most common causes of a pump air leak include bad thread sealant where the pipe enters the pump, a leaky valve stem on one of the suction valves or a break in the plumbing. Other sources of air leaking into the system include a loose or old pump lid or pump lid o-ring or an ill fitting pump drain plug. All air leaks originate BEFORE the impeller.lemon lime is optional! A good test to locate an Air Leak, and it will sound funny - is to use shaving cream (not gel). Spread the shaving cream over the suction side joints and fittings with the pump on. The pump will try to suck the foam into the pipe because it has less resistance or mass then the water. At the air leak you will start to see the layer of foam dimple as it gets sucked into the system revealing where the leak is. At this point you will know what part needs to be repaired or replaced. So, there you have it - some of the most common reasons for pool pump aggravation. We hope to have helped you through yours!

Types of Pool Algae

Types of Pool Algae Nearly every pool owner has had to deal with algae problems at one time or another. Even with a properly-working filtration system, sanitizers at their recommended levels, and a watchful eye, algae blooms can still develop. Algae spores can enter a pool in a variety of different ways, but is most commonly introduced into a pool through wind, rain, dirt, and even on a swimmer’s body or bathing suit. Keeping algae spores out of your pool is impossible, so it is important to prevent the microscopic spores from turning into unsightly algae blooms. Maintaining clean, algae-free water will help keep your pool and your family happy and healthy, Although there are over 20,000 known species of algae, there are only a few types that of algae that can survive and grow inside the sanitized environment of a swimming pool. Below are the kinds of algae that you might run into in your pool:

Green Algae

This is the most common type of pool algae. Green algae can show up either as discolored spots on your pool wall, or, more commonly, as large floating masses on the pool surface. While not particularly difficult to get rid of, green algae grows very quickly, so if left untreated, it can multiply to cover large areas of pool walls and surfaces.

Algae Pool Pink

Pink algae isn’t really algae at all, but a type of fungus known as Paecilomyces Lilacinus. The fungus forms into small colonies on pool surfaces, and can easily be eliminated through brushing and chlorination.

Black (Blue-Green) Algae

This is the toughest and most resistant type of algae, and it shows up as small, dark spots on the pool walls. Black algae is extremely difficult to get rid of because it buries its roots deep down in the plaster or tile gout, and will continue to grow back as long as the roots remain intact. Black algae also requires a mix of powerful chemical and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

Algae Pool Yellow Mustard Algae

Typically looks like small deposits or sand or dirt, and is usually found in the shady parts of the pool, and on pool steps and equipment like lights or ladders. Mustard algae is resistant to normal chlorine, so it requires a mix of powerful chemicals and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

BLACK ALGAE

What are black algae? A black algae is a thread-like growth on the rough surfaces of the swimming pool. Black algae will appear as dark black slippery spots on pool surfaces (walls and floor), and also forms a protective coating. Black algae form a layered structure where the first layer (which chlorine may kill) protects under layers from further destruction. Black algae are similar to the black algae that are found on bathroom shower tiles and in silicone seams near the bath. This form of algae is very slow growing but very hardy. It is extremely chlorine resistant. Some other articles I have read claim that black algae is very difficult to get rid of. In my experience, this is not true even with a severe break out. The only difficult part is making sure you brush all affected areas in the pool. The process I mentioned brushing. Before adding any chemicals, you will need to brush the entire pool (all black algae spots) with a STEEL bristle brush. Your nylon wall brush will not work since the black algae have a protective coating that needs to be brushed off and exposed. Once the head of the all black algae have been brushed and exposed you will shock or super-chlorinate the pool using granular chlorine (Calcium hypo chloride). Make sure you raise the chlorine to at least 15ppm for 24 hours. See my other articles on shocking the pool. After 24 hours the black algae should be completely gone. I recommend a quart of black algae algaecide as a precaution and for regular maintenance doses.

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