Types of Pool Algae

Types of Pool Algae Nearly every pool owner has had to deal with algae problems at one time or another. Even with a properly-working filtration system, sanitizers at their recommended levels, and a watchful eye, algae blooms can still develop. Algae spores can enter a pool in a variety of different ways, but is most commonly introduced into a pool through wind, rain, dirt, and even on a swimmer’s body or bathing suit. Keeping algae spores out of your pool is impossible, so it is important to prevent the microscopic spores from turning into unsightly algae blooms. Maintaining clean, algae-free water will help keep your pool and your family happy and healthy, Although there are over 20,000 known species of algae, there are only a few types that of algae that can survive and grow inside the sanitized environment of a swimming pool. Below are the kinds of algae that you might run into in your pool:

Green Algae

This is the most common type of pool algae. Green algae can show up either as discolored spots on your pool wall, or, more commonly, as large floating masses on the pool surface. While not particularly difficult to get rid of, green algae grows very quickly, so if left untreated, it can multiply to cover large areas of pool walls and surfaces.

Algae Pool Pink

Pink algae isn’t really algae at all, but a type of fungus known as Paecilomyces Lilacinus. The fungus forms into small colonies on pool surfaces, and can easily be eliminated through brushing and chlorination.

Black (Blue-Green) Algae

This is the toughest and most resistant type of algae, and it shows up as small, dark spots on the pool walls. Black algae is extremely difficult to get rid of because it buries its roots deep down in the plaster or tile gout, and will continue to grow back as long as the roots remain intact. Black algae also requires a mix of powerful chemical and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

Algae Pool Yellow Mustard Algae

Typically looks like small deposits or sand or dirt, and is usually found in the shady parts of the pool, and on pool steps and equipment like lights or ladders. Mustard algae is resistant to normal chlorine, so it requires a mix of powerful chemicals and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

Is pH Really That Important? The pH is one of the most important factors in pool water balance, and it should be tested and adjusted on a weekly basis. pH is the measure of how acid/ alkaline the swimming pool water is. A pH of 7.0 is neutral - below 7.0 is acidic, above 7.0 is alkaline. It should be kept within the range of 7.2-7.8. What happens when the pool is too acidic? (pH is low): 1. If your swimming pool is Marbelite or plaster, the pool water will begin to dissolve the surface, creating a roughness which is ideal for pool algae growth. A similar result occurs in the grouting of tiled swimming pools. 2. Metals corrode - and this includes swimming pool equipment, pipe fittings, pump connections, etc. As the swimming pool walls, and metal parts corrode, sulphates are formed. These sulphates are released from the water onto the walls, and floor of the swimming pool causing ugly brown and black stains. 3. Chlorine, which is used as a disinfectant in the swimming pool water, is activated and lost to the atmosphere very quickly. The water is not being sanitised, and we are throwing away our money by adding chlorine when the pH is too low. 4. When we swim, our eyes and nose burn. Our swimwear fades, and perishes. Our skin gets dry and itchy. What happens when the pool is too alkaline? (pH is high): 1. The calcium in the swimming pool water combines with carbonates and forms scale, just like in our kettles. This calcification is seen most at the waterline, where it traps dust and dirt, turning black with time. 2. The swimming pool water starts to become cloudy or murky and it loses its sparkle. Catch yourself buying clarifier frequently? This could be the result of your pH being too high. 3. The calcium carbonate has a tendency to plate out on the sand in the swimming pool filter, effectively turning it into cement. So your filter becomes a cement filter, and loses its ability to trap dirt and other debris from the pool water. 4. As the pH rises, the power of the chlorine to act on foreign particles is lost. At a pH of 8.0 the pool can only use 20% of the chlorine you put in. So 80% of it goes to waste and you would need 5 times as much chlorine to provide the disinfection you need. Swimming pool maintenance The five keys to maintaining water quality in your swimming pool include: Filtration Chlorination pH level Total alkalinity (TA) Calcium hardness. Filtration The water in your pool is pumped through a filter to remove debris and particles. How long you need to run the filter depends on the size of your swimming pool, and the horsepower of your pool pump. If you are unsure, check your instruction manual or consult with a pool maintenance company. Remember, that even when you are filtering your pool according to specifications, about 35 per cent of the water still won't be filtered. Chlorination Chlorine is a chemical that disinfects the water and helps to remove debris. You should use a chlorine stabiliser to extend the chlorine's half-life. Generally, the longer your filtration cycle, the less chlorine you will need. Similarly, the more chlorine you use, the shorter your required filtration cycle. Remember that your chlorine requirements will be affected by a range of factors, including your pump and filter system, water temperature, water level, amount of debris, and the number of swimmers in your pool. pH level The pH level indicates how acidic or alkaline the water is at any given time. A pH level of 7 means that water is neutral; above 7 means the water is alkaline, while below 7 indicates acidity. You should aim for a pH level of between 7 and 7.6. If the water pH is higher than 8, anyone who swims in the pool is at risk of skin rashes, while a pH of lower than 7 can sting the swimmers' eyes. Some of the many factors that can affect your pool's pH level include heavy rain, lots of swimmers, and pool chemicals. Remember to regularly check your pool's pH level. Total alkalinity (TA) Total alkalinity (TA) means the sum of all alkaline chemicals in your water. If TA is too low, the pH balance can become unstable; concrete and painted pool surfaces will also deteriorate over time. TA and pH are interconnected; for example, raising the TA could also raise the pH. Make sure you don't disrupt your pool's pH when adjusting the TA, and vice versa. Calcium hardness Calcium hardness refers to the amount of the mineral calcium dissolved in your water. Low calcium levels will deteriorate pool surfaces, while high calcium levels will leave a 'scum' or scale on surfaces and equipment. General water quality suggestions Be guided by pool professionals, but general suggestions on maintaining good water quality in your swimming pool include: Check your pH and chlorine levels daily. Preferably, these tests should be done before the first swim of the day, to make sure the water quality hasn't altered overnight. In very hot weather, it is a good idea to check the pH, and chlorine twice daily. Remember that heated pools need more chlorine than non-heated pools. Brush, and vacuum your pool on a regular basis. Regularly check the pump, skimmer boxes, and other pool equipment, and repair or replace parts as necessary. For more help visit www.poolhelpusa.com

Salt Water Pool

A salt water or saltwater pool is a swimming pool which is filled with a mild salt solution. Many companies which install pools can construct salt water pools and outfit them with the necessary sanitization systems, and these pools can vary radically in size from small lap pools to large community pools used for recreation. Swimmers sometimes enjoy saltwater pools because the water feels softer and gentler than that in some other types of pools. Salt water pools are not chlorine free, but it is not necessary to add chlorine to the pool. Instead, using a device known as a chlorine generator, the pool makes its own chlorine products for hygiene though electrolysis which breaks down the salt. Periodically, salt must be added to the pool to keep the salt solution strong enough for the chlorine generator to work. When a salt water pool is maintained properly, it should stay clean and safe to use, and it lacks the strong odor associated with chlorinated pools. Setting up a salt water pool can be expensive, as the chlorine generator and associated equipment can be costly. However, the salt used is significantly less expensive than chlorine additives for pools, which can save money in the long term. The pool will also require cleaning and maintenance, just like any other pool, and people who use pool services may want to confirm that their service is accustomed to working with salt water pools. People can install salt water pool systems in existing pools or they can install a brand new pool with a salt water system. The chlorine generator produces enough chlorine to inhibit the growth of bacteria, although the pool can still develop algae which needs to be cleared with a filtration system. Filtration will also clear leaves, debris from the bodies of swimmers, and other materials. Consumers concerned about pool hygiene who dislike the caustic nature of traditionally chlorinated pools may choose a salt water pool as an alternative which is more pleasant to swim in. Others simply enjoy swimming in saltwater. Consumers attached to municipal water and sewer systems may want to check with local authorities about regulations concerning salt water pools. Some municipalities ban the connection of salt water pools to the sewer system, or require people to treat the pool water before draining it into the sewer. A pool installation company should be able to provide consumers interested in salt water pool installation with more information and recommendations. For More Help Go To www.poolhelpusa.comBlue Wave NA390 Standard Pool (Google Affiliate Ad)Intex 57435EP Whale Spray Pool (Google Affiliate Ad)

Not everyone is a professional chemist

Not everyone is a professional chemist, so pool experts recommend you see them first for any problems you encounter. You can head off the issues by taking water samples to the local pool store once a month. “It’s like going to a doctor for a checkup, still want to try it the hands-on way? Here are the reasons behind and quick fixes for the most common pool problems. ALGAE AFFLICTION DESCRIPTION: Probably the most common of pool problems. The surface of the pool is green and swimmers merge looking like swamp monsters. CAUSE: Algae has infested the pool. “90% of the time the cause is that the chlorine level is low SOLUTION: Shock that pool! Perform a shock treatment using three times the normal amount of shock. Couple that with algaecide and the algae will be exterminated. CLOGGED FILTER DESCRIPTION: The pool is starting to build unseemly debris and the filter, when examined, is chock full. CAUSE: Relax; this one is a good thing. It pretty much means the filter is doing its job it’s clogged because the pool was dirty. SOLUTION: Perform some filter maintenance; clean it out each time it’s clogged. At least once a year it should be chemically cleaned to ensure its long functional life, according to. FOAMING FRUSTRATION DESCRIPTION: The pool looks like it is trying to host a foam party and you are not amused. White suds can be seen on the surface. CAUSE: “Most of the foaming we see in pools is from the use of poor algaecide, how do you spot one of these poor algaecides? “They never say “This is a foaming algaecide, “They’re cheaper and, not to pick on anybody, but you see them most often at mass marketers.” SOLUTION: Head back to the store and get an anti-foam agent and be sure to buy future algaecide from a trustworthy pool dealer who can vouch for it. MINERAL MISHAP DESCRIPTION: The pool is either a milk chocolate brown, or a brilliant beautiful teal. Blondes may leave the water with their fair locks green. CAUSE: An abundance of minerals in the water is the root of the problem. Pools with a lot of iron go the brown route, those with more copper take on the teal look with the green hair effect. SOLUTION: Pool stores have different chemicals to remove different minerals from the water, so purchase and use the one that is right for the pool. MURKY WATER DILEMMA DESCRIPTION: The bottom of the pool is a mystery. What could be lurking in its depths? Nobody knows. CAUSE: Improper pH levels, is the traditional cause - and the rain aided the problem. The rain is really acidic in this area and it does affect the pools. SOLUTION: Test the water’s pH levels and adjust accordingly. STAIN AGITATION DESCRIPTION: There is a weird brown stain on the pool’s walls or floor and no one knows where it came from. CAUSE: It could be organic, or the result of high mineral levels (see mineral mishap). Test the water to see by using a sock. First, put a little pH decreaser in the sock, then rub it on the stain. If it removes the stain, make a note of it. If it does not remove the stain, try again but with a chlorine stick in the sock instead of pH decreaser. SOLUTION: This is one for the professionals, present the results of the test to them and let them have at. But do it quickly, as removing the stain may not be possible. “It’s like your favorite article of clothing that gets stained. The longer it’s left untreated, the harder the stain will be to get out. For more help go to WWW.POOLHELPUSA.COM

POOL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

POOL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS Not everyone is a professional chemist, so pool experts recommend you see them first for any problems you encounter. You can head off the issues by taking water samples to the local pool store once a month. “It’s like going to a doctor for a checkup, still want to try it the hands-on way? Here are the reasons behind and quick fixes for the most common pool problems. ALGAE AFFLICTION DESCRIPTION: Probably the most common of pool problems. The surface of the pool is green and swimmers merge looking like swamp monsters. CAUSE: Algae has infested the pool. “90% of the time the cause is that the chlorine level is low SOLUTION: Shock that pool! Perform a shock treatment using three times the normal amount of shock. Couple that with algaecide and the algae will be exterminated. CLOGGED FILTER DESCRIPTION: The pool is starting to build unseemly debris and the filter, when examined, is chock full. CAUSE: Relax; this one is a good thing. It pretty much means the filter is doing its job it’s clogged because the pool was dirty. SOLUTION: Perform some filter maintenance; clean it out each time it’s clogged. At least once a year it should be chemically cleaned to ensure its long functional life, according to. FOAMING FRUSTRATION DESCRIPTION: The pool looks like it is trying to host a foam party and you are not amused. White suds can be seen on the surface. CAUSE: “Most of the foaming we see in pools is from the use of poor algaecide, how do you spot one of these poor algaecides? “They never say “This is a foaming algaecide, “They’re cheaper and, not to pick on anybody, but you see them most often at mass marketers.” SOLUTION: Head back to the store and get an anti-foam agent and be sure to buy future algaecide from a trustworthy pool dealer who can vouch for it. MINERAL MISHAP DESCRIPTION: The pool is either a milk chocolate brown, or a brilliant beautiful teal. Blondes may leave the water with their fair locks green. CAUSE: An abundance of minerals in the water is the root of the problem. Pools with a lot of iron go the brown route, those with more copper take on the teal look with the green hair effect. SOLUTION: Pool stores have different chemicals to remove different minerals from the water, so purchase and use the one that is right for the pool. MURKY WATER DILEMMA DESCRIPTION: The bottom of the pool is a mystery. What could be lurking in its depths? Nobody knows. CAUSE: Improper pH levels, is the traditional cause - and the rain aided the problem. The rain is really acidic in this area and it does affect the pools. SOLUTION: Test the water’s pH levels and adjust accordingly. STAIN AGITATION DESCRIPTION: There is a weird brown stain on the pool’s walls or floor and no one knows where it came from. CAUSE: It could be organic, or the result of high mineral levels (see mineral mishap). Test the water to see by using a sock. First, put a little pH decreaser in the sock, then rub it on the stain. If it removes the stain, make a note of it. If it does not remove the stain, try again but with a chlorine stick in the sock instead of pH decreaser. SOLUTION: This is one for the professionals, present the results of the test to them and let them have at. But do it quickly, as removing the stain may not be possible. “It’s like your favorite article of clothing that gets stained. The longer it’s left untreated, the harder the stain will be to get out. Please Visit www.poolhelpusa.com for more information.