Top 5 Pool Pump Problems

Top 5 Pool Pump Problems Pump problems The pump is one of the most important parts of your pool's plumbing system. It is responsible for creating pressure in your pool, which forces the water to flow through the filter. Think of it as the heart of your swimming pool and without a filter pump your pool will rapidly become a pond of scum. Unfortunately sometimes your pool pump will not work due to one of many issues that might occur. In this article. #1 The pump does pull water. If your pump is not moving water you first want to check the skimmer and pump baskets and make sure they are empty as not to restrict water flow. Next make sure your pool filter is clean. Once you have checked these, you may want to check the pump impeller. This is the part in the pump that is connected to the motor that moves the water. Impellers will clog from time to time, especially during the springtime. To inspect the impeller, you will need to open the pump, to see inside of the impeller housing or volute. One of the major causes for pump suction loss is an air leak in the suction line. The suction line is where the pump gets supplied with the water from the pool. You will know this may be the issue if your pump will not catch prime. Prime is when your pump is running at full capacity. A pump is designed to suck water, but it can and will suck air if given the chance. Air has less mass than water, so a pump will suck air before it will suck water. If you think you have an air leak, see #5 below. #2 The pump is leaking water go-kits for pool pumps If you see a pump leaking water it will be on what we call the pressure side. This is after the pump lint pot ( the pot and anything before is not under positive pressure but rather negative pressure or suction and will not leak but try to draw in air see #1). The causes for a leak can be a bad impeller housing o ring, bad shaft seal, or bad thread sealant or shrunken threads on the plumbing discharge pipe, or the pipe that comes out of the pump. If it is an o ring or seal it is best to get what they call a Go Kit, which has every seal and oring in the pump, in one kit. I always say, if you are going to take the pump apart, you might as well replace all the seals. Pool Pump Go-Kits cost about $20, depending on the pump model and are cheaper than buying all the seals one by one. #3 The motor will not work or turns off after time.pool pump motor capacitor There can be many things that can cause this issue. You want to start by checking for power to the motor. Check your breaker and make sure your timer is set to turn on the pump. If you are getting power, the next thing to check for is sounds. Can you hear the motor hum or can you hear a click? A humming motor can mean it is the capacitor. Think of the capacitor as a battery (looks like one too) that jumps the motor to start spinning. A capacitor stores up a quick jolt of electricity to start the motor. They can be located in the back of the motor housing or in a hump on the top or side of the unit. If your motor runs but turns itself off after a time, it may be over-heating. Pool pumps use a lot of wattage and need a constant supply. If it is in the middle of a hot day and everyone in your neighborhood has the AC on high there may be a drop of power causing the motor to overheat. Not much you can do at that point but maybe run your pump at night when it is cooler. The second leading cause for this is motor fan failure or vent blockage. On the underside of the motor are vents that can get clogged up with dirt and leaves.pool motor cover Make sure you do not have dirt build up and keep them open and clear. I have run across cases where was just plain old sun light causing the motor to overheat. This is common in the south west and I would recommend getting a motor cover to keep the sun at bay. #4 The motor/pump is making a loud noise. Everyone (and their neighbors) hates a loud swimming pool pump. If your pump is loud, the first thing to do is to listen to it. What kind of sound does it make? If it sounds like there are rocks in it, this can be from it vibrating on the pad it sits on, or it could be cavitation. A piece of rubber mat under it might help to stop the noise. If that is not the case, it may be cavitation. Cavitation happens when the pump cannot get enough water fast enough, or the pump is "starved for water". The pump impeller is spinning too fast with not enough water and starts to beat the air molecules out of the water. If you didn't just install an oversize pump, you will want to check the lines for a clog, or a closed valve. In some cases it may be a clogged filter or impeller. Clear out any obstructions and you should be fine. Now if you pump is screaming (this is what sets off the neighbors) your motor may need new bearings. Bearings are mounted on the pool motor bearings pool motor shaft inside the motor to help reduce the friction as the electro magnates make the motor shaft spin. This is a high wear and tear item within the motor. Although the bearings are cheap (about $15) the labor is intensive. Most motors have 2 different sizes in them and usually take special bearing pullers to remove them. I always recommend taking the motor to a shop and for about $100 you can get a motor refurbished. #5 The motor/pump is sucking in air. Pool pumps are supposed to be air tight. With a clear pump lid, you "should" see no air in the pump basket. This is rarely the case however, small air leaks are common. When the air leak gets too large, however, it can create problems with circulation or keeping the pump primed. The most common causes of a pump air leak include bad thread sealant where the pipe enters the pump, a leaky valve stem on one of the suction valves or a break in the plumbing. Other sources of air leaking into the system include a loose or old pump lid or pump lid o-ring or an ill fitting pump drain plug. All air leaks originate BEFORE the impeller.lemon lime is optional! A good test to locate an Air Leak, and it will sound funny - is to use shaving cream (not gel). Spread the shaving cream over the suction side joints and fittings with the pump on. The pump will try to suck the foam into the pipe because it has less resistance or mass then the water. At the air leak you will start to see the layer of foam dimple as it gets sucked into the system revealing where the leak is. At this point you will know what part needs to be repaired or replaced. So, there you have it - some of the most common reasons for pool pump aggravation. We hope to have helped you through yours!

Types of Pool Algae

Types of Pool Algae Nearly every pool owner has had to deal with algae problems at one time or another. Even with a properly-working filtration system, sanitizers at their recommended levels, and a watchful eye, algae blooms can still develop. Algae spores can enter a pool in a variety of different ways, but is most commonly introduced into a pool through wind, rain, dirt, and even on a swimmer’s body or bathing suit. Keeping algae spores out of your pool is impossible, so it is important to prevent the microscopic spores from turning into unsightly algae blooms. Maintaining clean, algae-free water will help keep your pool and your family happy and healthy, Although there are over 20,000 known species of algae, there are only a few types that of algae that can survive and grow inside the sanitized environment of a swimming pool. Below are the kinds of algae that you might run into in your pool:

Green Algae

This is the most common type of pool algae. Green algae can show up either as discolored spots on your pool wall, or, more commonly, as large floating masses on the pool surface. While not particularly difficult to get rid of, green algae grows very quickly, so if left untreated, it can multiply to cover large areas of pool walls and surfaces.

Algae Pool Pink

Pink algae isn’t really algae at all, but a type of fungus known as Paecilomyces Lilacinus. The fungus forms into small colonies on pool surfaces, and can easily be eliminated through brushing and chlorination.

Black (Blue-Green) Algae

This is the toughest and most resistant type of algae, and it shows up as small, dark spots on the pool walls. Black algae is extremely difficult to get rid of because it buries its roots deep down in the plaster or tile gout, and will continue to grow back as long as the roots remain intact. Black algae also requires a mix of powerful chemical and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

Algae Pool Yellow Mustard Algae

Typically looks like small deposits or sand or dirt, and is usually found in the shady parts of the pool, and on pool steps and equipment like lights or ladders. Mustard algae is resistant to normal chlorine, so it requires a mix of powerful chemicals and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

Is pH Really That Important? The pH is one of the most important factors in pool water balance, and it should be tested and adjusted on a weekly basis. pH is the measure of how acid/ alkaline the swimming pool water is. A pH of 7.0 is neutral - below 7.0 is acidic, above 7.0 is alkaline. It should be kept within the range of 7.2-7.8. What happens when the pool is too acidic? (pH is low): 1. If your swimming pool is Marbelite or plaster, the pool water will begin to dissolve the surface, creating a roughness which is ideal for pool algae growth. A similar result occurs in the grouting of tiled swimming pools. 2. Metals corrode - and this includes swimming pool equipment, pipe fittings, pump connections, etc. As the swimming pool walls, and metal parts corrode, sulphates are formed. These sulphates are released from the water onto the walls, and floor of the swimming pool causing ugly brown and black stains. 3. Chlorine, which is used as a disinfectant in the swimming pool water, is activated and lost to the atmosphere very quickly. The water is not being sanitised, and we are throwing away our money by adding chlorine when the pH is too low. 4. When we swim, our eyes and nose burn. Our swimwear fades, and perishes. Our skin gets dry and itchy. What happens when the pool is too alkaline? (pH is high): 1. The calcium in the swimming pool water combines with carbonates and forms scale, just like in our kettles. This calcification is seen most at the waterline, where it traps dust and dirt, turning black with time. 2. The swimming pool water starts to become cloudy or murky and it loses its sparkle. Catch yourself buying clarifier frequently? This could be the result of your pH being too high. 3. The calcium carbonate has a tendency to plate out on the sand in the swimming pool filter, effectively turning it into cement. So your filter becomes a cement filter, and loses its ability to trap dirt and other debris from the pool water. 4. As the pH rises, the power of the chlorine to act on foreign particles is lost. At a pH of 8.0 the pool can only use 20% of the chlorine you put in. So 80% of it goes to waste and you would need 5 times as much chlorine to provide the disinfection you need. Swimming pool maintenance The five keys to maintaining water quality in your swimming pool include: Filtration Chlorination pH level Total alkalinity (TA) Calcium hardness. Filtration The water in your pool is pumped through a filter to remove debris and particles. How long you need to run the filter depends on the size of your swimming pool, and the horsepower of your pool pump. If you are unsure, check your instruction manual or consult with a pool maintenance company. Remember, that even when you are filtering your pool according to specifications, about 35 per cent of the water still won't be filtered. Chlorination Chlorine is a chemical that disinfects the water and helps to remove debris. You should use a chlorine stabiliser to extend the chlorine's half-life. Generally, the longer your filtration cycle, the less chlorine you will need. Similarly, the more chlorine you use, the shorter your required filtration cycle. Remember that your chlorine requirements will be affected by a range of factors, including your pump and filter system, water temperature, water level, amount of debris, and the number of swimmers in your pool. pH level The pH level indicates how acidic or alkaline the water is at any given time. A pH level of 7 means that water is neutral; above 7 means the water is alkaline, while below 7 indicates acidity. You should aim for a pH level of between 7 and 7.6. If the water pH is higher than 8, anyone who swims in the pool is at risk of skin rashes, while a pH of lower than 7 can sting the swimmers' eyes. Some of the many factors that can affect your pool's pH level include heavy rain, lots of swimmers, and pool chemicals. Remember to regularly check your pool's pH level. Total alkalinity (TA) Total alkalinity (TA) means the sum of all alkaline chemicals in your water. If TA is too low, the pH balance can become unstable; concrete and painted pool surfaces will also deteriorate over time. TA and pH are interconnected; for example, raising the TA could also raise the pH. Make sure you don't disrupt your pool's pH when adjusting the TA, and vice versa. Calcium hardness Calcium hardness refers to the amount of the mineral calcium dissolved in your water. Low calcium levels will deteriorate pool surfaces, while high calcium levels will leave a 'scum' or scale on surfaces and equipment. General water quality suggestions Be guided by pool professionals, but general suggestions on maintaining good water quality in your swimming pool include: Check your pH and chlorine levels daily. Preferably, these tests should be done before the first swim of the day, to make sure the water quality hasn't altered overnight. In very hot weather, it is a good idea to check the pH, and chlorine twice daily. Remember that heated pools need more chlorine than non-heated pools. Brush, and vacuum your pool on a regular basis. Regularly check the pump, skimmer boxes, and other pool equipment, and repair or replace parts as necessary. For more help visit www.poolhelpusa.com

Salt Water Pool

A salt water or saltwater pool is a swimming pool which is filled with a mild salt solution. Many companies which install pools can construct salt water pools and outfit them with the necessary sanitization systems, and these pools can vary radically in size from small lap pools to large community pools used for recreation. Swimmers sometimes enjoy saltwater pools because the water feels softer and gentler than that in some other types of pools. Salt water pools are not chlorine free, but it is not necessary to add chlorine to the pool. Instead, using a device known as a chlorine generator, the pool makes its own chlorine products for hygiene though electrolysis which breaks down the salt. Periodically, salt must be added to the pool to keep the salt solution strong enough for the chlorine generator to work. When a salt water pool is maintained properly, it should stay clean and safe to use, and it lacks the strong odor associated with chlorinated pools. Setting up a salt water pool can be expensive, as the chlorine generator and associated equipment can be costly. However, the salt used is significantly less expensive than chlorine additives for pools, which can save money in the long term. The pool will also require cleaning and maintenance, just like any other pool, and people who use pool services may want to confirm that their service is accustomed to working with salt water pools. People can install salt water pool systems in existing pools or they can install a brand new pool with a salt water system. The chlorine generator produces enough chlorine to inhibit the growth of bacteria, although the pool can still develop algae which needs to be cleared with a filtration system. Filtration will also clear leaves, debris from the bodies of swimmers, and other materials. Consumers concerned about pool hygiene who dislike the caustic nature of traditionally chlorinated pools may choose a salt water pool as an alternative which is more pleasant to swim in. Others simply enjoy swimming in saltwater. Consumers attached to municipal water and sewer systems may want to check with local authorities about regulations concerning salt water pools. Some municipalities ban the connection of salt water pools to the sewer system, or require people to treat the pool water before draining it into the sewer. A pool installation company should be able to provide consumers interested in salt water pool installation with more information and recommendations. For More Help Go To www.poolhelpusa.comBlue Wave NA390 Standard Pool (Google Affiliate Ad)Intex 57435EP Whale Spray Pool (Google Affiliate Ad)

Not everyone is a professional chemist

Not everyone is a professional chemist, so pool experts recommend you see them first for any problems you encounter. You can head off the issues by taking water samples to the local pool store once a month. “It’s like going to a doctor for a checkup, still want to try it the hands-on way? Here are the reasons behind and quick fixes for the most common pool problems. ALGAE AFFLICTION DESCRIPTION: Probably the most common of pool problems. The surface of the pool is green and swimmers merge looking like swamp monsters. CAUSE: Algae has infested the pool. “90% of the time the cause is that the chlorine level is low SOLUTION: Shock that pool! Perform a shock treatment using three times the normal amount of shock. Couple that with algaecide and the algae will be exterminated. CLOGGED FILTER DESCRIPTION: The pool is starting to build unseemly debris and the filter, when examined, is chock full. CAUSE: Relax; this one is a good thing. It pretty much means the filter is doing its job it’s clogged because the pool was dirty. SOLUTION: Perform some filter maintenance; clean it out each time it’s clogged. At least once a year it should be chemically cleaned to ensure its long functional life, according to. FOAMING FRUSTRATION DESCRIPTION: The pool looks like it is trying to host a foam party and you are not amused. White suds can be seen on the surface. CAUSE: “Most of the foaming we see in pools is from the use of poor algaecide, how do you spot one of these poor algaecides? “They never say “This is a foaming algaecide, “They’re cheaper and, not to pick on anybody, but you see them most often at mass marketers.” SOLUTION: Head back to the store and get an anti-foam agent and be sure to buy future algaecide from a trustworthy pool dealer who can vouch for it. MINERAL MISHAP DESCRIPTION: The pool is either a milk chocolate brown, or a brilliant beautiful teal. Blondes may leave the water with their fair locks green. CAUSE: An abundance of minerals in the water is the root of the problem. Pools with a lot of iron go the brown route, those with more copper take on the teal look with the green hair effect. SOLUTION: Pool stores have different chemicals to remove different minerals from the water, so purchase and use the one that is right for the pool. MURKY WATER DILEMMA DESCRIPTION: The bottom of the pool is a mystery. What could be lurking in its depths? Nobody knows. CAUSE: Improper pH levels, is the traditional cause - and the rain aided the problem. The rain is really acidic in this area and it does affect the pools. SOLUTION: Test the water’s pH levels and adjust accordingly. STAIN AGITATION DESCRIPTION: There is a weird brown stain on the pool’s walls or floor and no one knows where it came from. CAUSE: It could be organic, or the result of high mineral levels (see mineral mishap). Test the water to see by using a sock. First, put a little pH decreaser in the sock, then rub it on the stain. If it removes the stain, make a note of it. If it does not remove the stain, try again but with a chlorine stick in the sock instead of pH decreaser. SOLUTION: This is one for the professionals, present the results of the test to them and let them have at. But do it quickly, as removing the stain may not be possible. “It’s like your favorite article of clothing that gets stained. The longer it’s left untreated, the harder the stain will be to get out. For more help go to WWW.POOLHELPUSA.COM

POOL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

POOL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS Not everyone is a professional chemist, so pool experts recommend you see them first for any problems you encounter. You can head off the issues by taking water samples to the local pool store once a month. “It’s like going to a doctor for a checkup, still want to try it the hands-on way? Here are the reasons behind and quick fixes for the most common pool problems. ALGAE AFFLICTION DESCRIPTION: Probably the most common of pool problems. The surface of the pool is green and swimmers merge looking like swamp monsters. CAUSE: Algae has infested the pool. “90% of the time the cause is that the chlorine level is low SOLUTION: Shock that pool! Perform a shock treatment using three times the normal amount of shock. Couple that with algaecide and the algae will be exterminated. CLOGGED FILTER DESCRIPTION: The pool is starting to build unseemly debris and the filter, when examined, is chock full. CAUSE: Relax; this one is a good thing. It pretty much means the filter is doing its job it’s clogged because the pool was dirty. SOLUTION: Perform some filter maintenance; clean it out each time it’s clogged. At least once a year it should be chemically cleaned to ensure its long functional life, according to. FOAMING FRUSTRATION DESCRIPTION: The pool looks like it is trying to host a foam party and you are not amused. White suds can be seen on the surface. CAUSE: “Most of the foaming we see in pools is from the use of poor algaecide, how do you spot one of these poor algaecides? “They never say “This is a foaming algaecide, “They’re cheaper and, not to pick on anybody, but you see them most often at mass marketers.” SOLUTION: Head back to the store and get an anti-foam agent and be sure to buy future algaecide from a trustworthy pool dealer who can vouch for it. MINERAL MISHAP DESCRIPTION: The pool is either a milk chocolate brown, or a brilliant beautiful teal. Blondes may leave the water with their fair locks green. CAUSE: An abundance of minerals in the water is the root of the problem. Pools with a lot of iron go the brown route, those with more copper take on the teal look with the green hair effect. SOLUTION: Pool stores have different chemicals to remove different minerals from the water, so purchase and use the one that is right for the pool. MURKY WATER DILEMMA DESCRIPTION: The bottom of the pool is a mystery. What could be lurking in its depths? Nobody knows. CAUSE: Improper pH levels, is the traditional cause - and the rain aided the problem. The rain is really acidic in this area and it does affect the pools. SOLUTION: Test the water’s pH levels and adjust accordingly. STAIN AGITATION DESCRIPTION: There is a weird brown stain on the pool’s walls or floor and no one knows where it came from. CAUSE: It could be organic, or the result of high mineral levels (see mineral mishap). Test the water to see by using a sock. First, put a little pH decreaser in the sock, then rub it on the stain. If it removes the stain, make a note of it. If it does not remove the stain, try again but with a chlorine stick in the sock instead of pH decreaser. SOLUTION: This is one for the professionals, present the results of the test to them and let them have at. But do it quickly, as removing the stain may not be possible. “It’s like your favorite article of clothing that gets stained. The longer it’s left untreated, the harder the stain will be to get out. Please Visit www.poolhelpusa.com for more information.

What causes Algae problems?

What causes Algae problems? Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment. When conditions are right, an algae bloom can occur seemingly overnight. These conditions include out of balance water, warm temperatures, sunlight and presence of nitrates and/or carbon dioxide. Of course, a lack of proper circulation, filtration and sanitation may be the primary cause of the algae. The best process is one of elimination. Algae is a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct. What problems can Algae cause? The first noticeable problem is that no one seems to want to go swimming. The second problem is that it requires work and effort and money to rid the water completely of algae. It is therefore best to use preventative chemicals and techniques, described later. Algae can cloud and color the water, making rescue attempts difficult and reducing depth perception of a diver. Algae itself is not harmful to swimmers, but pools with algae may also be harbor to pathogens like E-coli bacteria. In addition to clogging up sanitation pathways in the water, algae also clogs up the pores in a filter, decreasing filter effectiveness and requiring more backwashing or medium replacement. Algae creates a chlorine demand in the water for itself, actually consuming chlorine that should be working on other contaminants. Algae are kind of like weeds in your garden. Unsightly, unwanted space takers that create more work for the gardener, and sap up nutrients and resources from the flora we wish to grow. What types of Algae are there? There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae! In the pool business we avoid all of the complication by referring to algae by the color they exhibit. Green Algae: An extremely common variety, green algae will usually rear its ugly head immediately following a hazy condition in the water from a lack of proper filtration and/or sanitation. It is frequently found free floating in the water, although it also will cling to the walls. It reduces water clarity and is thereby distinguished from severe copper precipitation, which will impart a clear, green color to the water. Varieties of green algae also appear as "spots" on surfaces, particularly rough areas, or places where circulation is low. They also show up as "sheets", where large wall sections, or even the entire pool, is coated in green slime...UGH! Yellow Algae: A wall clinging variety, also called mustard algae, is usually found on the shady side of the pool. It is sheet forming, and can be difficult to eradicate completely. Once begun, a pool owner could spend the entire season fighting yellow algae; re-infection is common. This variety is resistant to normal chlorine levels and must be dealt with firmly. Hit it hard! Black Algae: Perhaps the most aggravating strain of algae, it can be extremely difficult to eradicate completely. This is not entirely accurate, but the difficulty in removing it fully is due to the strong roots and protective layers over top of the black algae plant. Black algae will appear as dark black or blue/green spots, usually the size of a pencil eraser tip. Their roots extend into the plaster or tile grout, and unless the roots are destroyed completely, a new head will grow back in the same place. The heads also contain protective layers to keep cell destroying chemicals from entering the organism. Like yellow algae, black strains can bloom even in the presence of normal sanitizing levels and proper filtration. I was once told that this form of algae commonly enters a pool inside the swimsuit of a person who's recently been to the ocean. Pink Algae: Not really an algae at all, but a form of bacteria. Appears as spots or streaks in corners and crevices. It is slow to spread and rare that it will bloom over an entire pool. How is algae prevented? Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. high pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth. Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony. The use of specialty chemicals or algaecides is recommended to provide a back up to normal sanitation and filtration processes and is completely necessary for many pools. These chemicals are described below: For more information please visit www.poolhelpusa.com

Grim Statistics On Child Drownings

Grim Statistics On Child Drownings According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC): 350 children under the age of five drown in pools each year nationwide. The majority of the deaths occur in June, July and August; most in backyard pools. Among unintentional injuries, drowning is the second leading cause of death to this age group after motor vehicle accidents. In some Sunbelt states such as California, Florida and Arizona, drowning is the leading cause of accidental death to children under five. Another 2,600 children are treated in hospital emergency rooms each year for near-drowning incidents. Some of these submersion accidents result in permanent brain damage. Medical costs for submersion victims during the initial hospitalization alone can be quite high. Costs can range from an estimated $2,000 for a victim who recovers fully to $80,000 for a victim with severe brain damage. Some severely brain damaged victims have initial hospital stays in excess of 120 days and expenses in excess of $150,000. In a comprehensive study of drowning and submersion incidents involving children under 5 years old in Arizona, California, and Florida, the CPSC found that: Most were young. Three quarters (75%) of the submersion victims were between 1 and 3 years old; More than half (65%) of this group were boys. Toddlers, in particular, often do something unexpected because their capabilities change daily. Most were being watched by parents. At the time of the incidents, most victims were being supervised by one or both parents. Almost half (46%) of the victims were last seen in the house; one quarter (23%) were last seen in the yard or on the porch or patio; and 31% were in or around the pool before the accident. In all, 69% of the children were not expected to be at or in the pool, yet they were found in the water. Most happen in familiar surroundings. Submersion incidents involving children usually happen in familiar surroundings. 65% of the incidents happened in a pool owned by the child's family and a third of the incidents happened in a pool owned by friends or relatives. Most accidents happen quickly. Pool submersions involving children happen quickly. A child can drown in the time it takes to answer a phone. More than 3 out of 4 of the victims (77%) had been missing from sight for 5 minutes or less. Seconds count. Survival depends on rescuing the child quickly and restarting the breathing process, even while the child is still in the water. Seconds count in preventing death or brain damage. A silent killer. Child drowning is a silent death. There's no splashing to alert anyone that the child is in trouble. Please visit www.poolhelpusa.com for all your product needs. Inground Solid Safety Covers

Drowning Accident Prevention

Drowning Accident Prevention NSPI statistics show that drowning and swimming accidents are best prevented by adult supervision, public awareness programs including water safety training for young children, and not drinking alcohol while swimming, diving or soaking. Statistically, most accidents involving drowning or severe injury occur to children under 5 years of age who are unsupervised, cannot swim, and fall into a pool or pool cover with water on top. Toddlers at the age of 2 or 3 are most likely to wander off from a parent's supervision. Barriers such as fences or back doors are often left unlocked. Drowning is NOT accompanied by loud noise or splashing sounds. DROWNING IS SILENT! To prevent child-drowning, there is NO substitute for parental supervision. The second largest number of accidental injuries occurs to teenagers, primarily males. Often the victim has been drinking alcohol and has dove into the pool in an area too shallow for diving, or from a location not intended for diving (like the roof of the house). Many of those who "drink and dive" end up in a wheelchair, if they're lucky. Alcohol and spas are also a potentially lethal combination; the hot water and the alcohol combine to cause individuals to fall asleep and drown in only three feet of water. Other hazards exist, like standing water on top of solid pool covers. Small children and animals can drown in as little as a few inches of water. Cover pumps are available and must be used, or switch to a mesh type safety cover. Solar blankets or solid covers must be completely removed before entering the water. Entrapment by the suction of a single main drain on long hair or small arms and legs has been the cause of drowning in the past. New standards require double main drains or a safety switch to prevent this. In some areas of the nation's Sunbelt, drowning has been the leading cause of accidental death in the home of children under 5 years old. The information below can help parents and caregivers provide young children with the protection they deserve. Each year, nationwide, more than 300 children under 5 years old drown in residential swimming pools, usually a pool owned by their family. In addition, more than 2,000 children in that age group are treated in hospital emergency rooms for submersion injures. Medical costs for submersion victims during the initial hospitalization alone can be quite high. Costs can range from an estimated $2,000 for a victim who recovers fully to $80,000 for a victim with severe brain damage. Some severely brain damaged victims have initial hospital stays in excess of 120 days and expenses in excess of $150,000. Many communities have enacted safety regulations governing residential swimming pools -- in-ground and above-ground. It's up to parents to comply with these regulations. Apart from these laws, parents who own pools can take their own precautions to reduce the chances of their youngsters accessing the family pool or spa without adult supervision. Facts & Figures The following are just a few facts uncovered by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) in a comprehensive study of drowning and submersion incidents involving children under 5 years old in Arizona, California, and Florida. Seventy-five percent of the submersion victims studied by CPSC were between 1 and 3 years old; 65 percent of this group were boys. Toddlers, in particular, often do something unexpected because their capabilities change daily. At the time of the incidents, most victims were being supervised by one or both parents. Forty-six percent of the victims were last seen in the house; 23 percent were last seen in the yard or on the porch or patio; and 31 percent were in or around the pool before the accident. In all, 69 percent of the children were not expected to be at or in the pool, yet they were found in the water. Submersion incidents involving children usually happen in familiar surroundings. Sixty-five percent of the incidents happened in a pool owned by the child's family and 33 percent of the incidents happened in a pool owned by friends or relatives. Pool submersions involving children happen quickly. A child can drown in the time it takes to answer a phone. Seventy-seven percent of the victims had been missing from sight for 5 minutes or less. Survival depends on rescuing the child quickly and restarting the breathing process, even while the child is still in the water. Seconds count in preventing death or brain damage. Child drowning is a silent death. There's no splashing to alert anyone that the child is in trouble. Inground Solid Safety Covers For More Information Pleas Visit Us At www.poolhelpusa.com

D E Filter

The D.E. filter is the most efficient type of pool filter on the market. It can trap particles down to 3 - 5 microns; well below what the naked eye can see. DE filters, like most pool filters, use a pressure gauge toindicate a need for backwashing when it reads 8 - 10 lbs. higher than its clean reading. After backwashing a D.E. filter, a new application of D.E. filter powder is added to the filter by pouring into the skimmer. An annual breakdown of the filter is necessary to thoroughly clean D.E. filter grids. The Powder is what does the filtering. A D.E. filter requires that the operator (you) add D.E. powder to coat the filter grids inside of the filter tank. This widely available, inexpensive powder is actually the microscopic skeletons of Diatoms, an ancient, sub aquatic creature. Under the microscope, these skeletons appear to be tiny sponges. This is where the dirt gets trapped in your filter. The powder, which is added at your skimmer, dissolves in the pipe on its way to the filter tank. When it reaches the grids, which are covered with a nylon type of fabric the powder stops coating the grid. DE Grids are also called Elements or Septum’s. The water continues to pass through, first through the powder, then the fabric covered grid. As the water passes through the D.E. and enters the grid it leaves the dirt, trapped in the D.E. powder "cake" or coating. The powder is the filter. The D.E. powder is what filters your pool water in a D.E. filter. Do not operate your pump without having the D.E. powder coating the grids, or you will see your pressure rise very quickly, and if left in this manner the grids could become damaged. As the pressure gauge on a D.E. filter increases, flow rate decreases. Eventually the flow rate will allow the water quality to suffer. You will need to backwash the filter to remove the D.E. that is clogged up with the dirt. After backwashing thoroughly, add new D.E. powder to the filter through the skimmer. If using biguanides (Soft Swim or Baquacil) you will need twice annual, very thorough cleaning to prevent it from gumming up. All D.E. filters should have this done at least once per year. Thorough cleaning is accomplished by turning the pump off and draining the filter. Remove the tank top half, and remove the grid assembly. Hose the grid assembly thoroughly. If you want to do an extra good job, after hosing, soak the assembly in a trash can filled with water and a filter cleaner product. (Or use TSP {trisodium-phosphate} from the hardware store). Rinse thoroughly before reinstalling grids into tank. While cleaning the DE grids, it's good to inspect them for tears and holes. Holes in your DE grids larger than 1/2 inch will need to be sewn, or replaced. Inspect also for mis aligned grids, and correct, and check that the through bolts are tightly secured so that the assembly is drawn close and the grids are snug into the top manifold and the bottom spreader plate. When backwashing a D.E. filter, bump the filter several times. That is, backwash until water runs clear, move the multiport valve to FILTER and run it on filter for a 5 - 10 seconds, and backwash again until it runs clear, etc...do this 2 - 4 times. Remember to always shut off the pump before turning your multiport valve or your push-pull valve. Each time you go through the cycle of filter/ backwash/ filter, you will get more dirt/ D.E. out of the filter, giving you a better, more thorough backwash. Be cautious not to pump DE waste water directly into streams as it may choke small aquatic life. Your city or town may have discharge regulations for DE powder. If you are using a separation tank for backwashing, or a separate tank that separates the DE from the waste water, and returns clean water to the pool (prevents water wasting) - it is especially recommended to bump the filter as described above, and run your backwash cycle for a longer time period, maybe 10 minutes. Using a sep tank may also require more frequent manual cleaning of the DE grids, because the backpressure reduces the overall flow rate during backwashing. Also important in ensuring an effective backwashing is to make sure skimmer baskets and pump baskets are clean to allow for full flow entering the filter. How do I Backwash my DE Filter? When the pressure gauge is reading 8 - 10 lbs above the clean, starting pressure (after backwashing), it is time to backwash the filter. This process involves turning a valve so that the water will flow through the filter backwards, flushing out the dirt. Hence the name "back-washing." DE filters can have either a push-pull valve (also known as slide valves) or a multiport valve. The multiport valve has multi-ports on the valve, usually 6 positions: FILTER: Keep it here most of the time, except when backwashing, rinsing or wasting RINSE: Use this setting for 20 seconds after backwashing to rinse tank RECIRCULATE: Use this if the filter's broken; at least you're circulating your pool. BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the waste line. Make sure valves are open or hoses rolled out CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do not operate pump with valve in closed position WASTE/ DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting, but this one sends the water out of the waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. Used to lower pool water level or to vacuum to waste So, to backwash a D.E. filter with a multiport valve; Shut off pump motor Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position Roll out any backwash hose or open any waste line valves Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on. Watch pressure gauge for backpressure and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly After hose fills with water, run for 2 - 3 minutes or until water runs clear Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to RINSE position. Run on rinse for 5 - 10 seconds. Shut off pump again, and move handle back to BACKWASH. Turn on pump again until water runs clear. Continue in this fashion 3 - 4 times, alternating between Backwash & Rinse, to ensure a thorough backwash. Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to FILTER position Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose Add 1 lb D.E. powder per 10 sq ft of filter area. Look on filter tank To Backwash a DE filter with a slide valve: Shut off pump motor, roll out backwash hose (if you have it) Twist to unlock plunger T-handle, pull/ twist plunger upwards 2 - 3" Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on Watch pressure gauge for backpressure (+ 40 PSI) and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly. After hose fills with water, run for 1 - 2 minutes or until water runs clear. Shut off and push handle back down. Turn pump on and run in filter position for 15 seconds and then shut pump off and backwash again for 1 min. Filter again for 15 seconds and another 30 second backwash. Shut off pump motor and push T-handle back down into locked position Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose Add 1 lb D.E. powder per 10 sq ft of filter area. Look on filter tank. A properly sized D.E. filter should, in most cases, be able to operate continuously for a period of 4 weeks between backwashing’s. A "Filter Run" of less than 4 weeks may indicate grid problems (or sizing problems). Filter grid fabric can become clogged with Calcium deposits or oils. After removing the grids from the assembly, you can soak in TSP (trisodium-phosphate) and warm water to remove oily deposits. If you have high levels of calcium or other minerals in your pool water you can soak the grids in a 10% muriatic acid solution for a few minutes followed by a full rinse. TSP soak and Rinse will remove mineral deposits such as Calcium. D.E. powder in the pool? You either have holes in the fabric of the grids, or a crack in the manifold that the grids attach to. It can also mean a broken air bleeder tube or assembly. Finally, D.E. in the pool can mean that the multiport or push-pull valve is allowing powder to bypass the filter. You will notice this most when adding new D.E. powder after backwashing, but you can test this at any time. The best method to determine the cause is to remove the grids and clean/ inspect thoroughly. Filter Grid replacement: Grids and manifolds vary by manufacturer, and by size. DE grids are usually $15-25 per grid; and you may expect to pay $75-100 for a manifold. Labor is usually less than one hour. You can buy the entire set of 8 grids for a lower price usually, and many times it is best to replace all grids at one time. When replacing all the grids, do it upside down, with the manifold on the ground, and then work the bottom spreader plate on the top, spacing all grids correctly. If handy with an awl, torn grids can be sewn instead of replaced. Poor water Quality? It could be a problem with your multiport or push-pull valve. The valve could be allowing water to bypass the filter and return to the pool unfiltered. Perhaps you are not running the filter long enough. Perhaps there is not enough D.E. powder in the filter, or too much DE powder. You may also need to backwash the filter or remove the grids and clean them manually. Poor sanitation, poor water balance, and pool circulation could be another cause, and it could have nothing to do with the filtering at all. How long should I run my DE pool filter each day? Well, just as much as you need. Careful experimentation will show you when the water quality begins to suffer. Many people with smaller, older equipment (filter/ pump) run their systems 24 hours per day. The average (I would guess) would be about 16 hours. BUT! It depends on your system. Undersized? Old? High pool Use? Large Debris Load? Heavy Sunlight? Any of these factors call for extra filtering. If you're too frugal with the electricity, you may have to pay more in chemical costs. Leaking DE filter? Most D.E. filters have a belly band clamp with a large O-ring between tank halves. The O-ring can become distended or flattened and may need to be replaced if water is dripping from the center clamp. Caution: Do not remove the center clamp while the pump is running, and without first releasing pressure inside the tank. You may notice your multiport valve leaking in one or more areas. See sand filter info on previous page. If your push-pull valve is leaking out of the backwash port (where the hose attaches), the plunger either needs replacement, or a new set of O-rings. If your DE filter tank is leaking, and not from the belly band, bulkhead fittings or air bleed assembly, but in the tank itself, through a pinhole or crack, replace the tank half or entire filter immediately. There is no safe and effective way to repair tank damage. For more information visit www.poolhelpusa.com

Pool Help, Helping You Solve Your Pool Problems: Pool Chemicals Explained

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Chlorine in Pools May Cause Breathing Trouble

Chlorine in Pools May Cause Breathing Trouble Chlorine Levels May Pose Risks to Swimmers, People with Asthma WebMD Health News -- Chlorine levels commonly found in homes and public pools may lead to breathing problems in swimmers, regardless of their history of such problems, researchers say. A new study shows that swimmers experienced breathing problems similar to those associated with asthma after several minutes of swimming even in water with chlorine levels below the recommended level for disinfecting private pools. The study shows that trained swimmers who swam for six to eight minutes in a pool with high levels of chlorine were three times more likely to develop exercise-induced bronchoconstriction (EIB) (commonly known as exercise-induced asthma) than when they swam in water with low chlorine levels or exercised out of the water. Exercise-induced asthma causes narrowing of the airways and difficulty in moving air out of the lung. "We've long suspected that chlorine has an adverse effect on the respiratory health of swimmers," says researcher Arthur J. Williams, MD, of the Sport Science Institute of South Africa, in a news release. "Now we know the likelihood increases significantly with the concentration of chlorine used. Swimmers should be aware of the concentration of chlorine exposure they receive, and those who care for pools should closely monitor chlorine levels." Chlorine Tied to Breathing Problems In the study, which was presented recently at the American College of Sports Medicine's annual meeting in Indianapolis, researchers compared the effects of exercise in different settings on breathing function. Researchers randomly assigned 20 trained swimmers with no history of exercise-induced asthma and 21 with a history of exercise-induced asthma to the following four exercise tests of the same intensity and duration: Swimming in an indoor pool with no chlorine in the water Swimming in a chlorinated pool with low levels of chlorine (0.5 parts per million (PPM)) Swimming in a chlorinated pool with high levels of chlorine (1.0 PPM) Running or cycling next to any of the pools After exercise, researchers used a machine to test airflow during forced exhaling to analyze restriction of airflow in the airways. The study showed that 60% of the participants, regardless of their history of EIB, suffered from airway constriction after swimming in the highly chlorinated pool compared with 20% after swimming in the low- or no-chlorine pool or on dry land. Researchers say that the recommended chlorine level for disinfecting private pools can be as high as 2.0 PPM, which may be irritating to many swimmers, especially those with existing problems such as asthma. "This research is the first to investigate how increases in chlorine concentrations in swimming pools can enhance respiratory problems," said Williams. "We hope people who appreciate swimming as a quality form of exercise will continue to reap its enormous physical benefits, but also be more aware of the potential hazards. We believe these hazards can be minimized through awareness and proper pool maintenance." Researchers recommend that swimmers use pools where the chlorine concentration is kept below 0.5 PPM in order to reduce their risk of breathing problems. Please Visit www.poolhelpusa for more information.

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