Top 5 Pool Pump Problems

Top 5 Pool Pump Problems Pump problems The pump is one of the most important parts of your pool's plumbing system. It is responsible for creating pressure in your pool, which forces the water to flow through the filter. Think of it as the heart of your swimming pool and without a filter pump your pool will rapidly become a pond of scum. Unfortunately sometimes your pool pump will not work due to one of many issues that might occur. In this article. #1 The pump does pull water. If your pump is not moving water you first want to check the skimmer and pump baskets and make sure they are empty as not to restrict water flow. Next make sure your pool filter is clean. Once you have checked these, you may want to check the pump impeller. This is the part in the pump that is connected to the motor that moves the water. Impellers will clog from time to time, especially during the springtime. To inspect the impeller, you will need to open the pump, to see inside of the impeller housing or volute. One of the major causes for pump suction loss is an air leak in the suction line. The suction line is where the pump gets supplied with the water from the pool. You will know this may be the issue if your pump will not catch prime. Prime is when your pump is running at full capacity. A pump is designed to suck water, but it can and will suck air if given the chance. Air has less mass than water, so a pump will suck air before it will suck water. If you think you have an air leak, see #5 below. #2 The pump is leaking water go-kits for pool pumps If you see a pump leaking water it will be on what we call the pressure side. This is after the pump lint pot ( the pot and anything before is not under positive pressure but rather negative pressure or suction and will not leak but try to draw in air see #1). The causes for a leak can be a bad impeller housing o ring, bad shaft seal, or bad thread sealant or shrunken threads on the plumbing discharge pipe, or the pipe that comes out of the pump. If it is an o ring or seal it is best to get what they call a Go Kit, which has every seal and oring in the pump, in one kit. I always say, if you are going to take the pump apart, you might as well replace all the seals. Pool Pump Go-Kits cost about $20, depending on the pump model and are cheaper than buying all the seals one by one. #3 The motor will not work or turns off after time.pool pump motor capacitor There can be many things that can cause this issue. You want to start by checking for power to the motor. Check your breaker and make sure your timer is set to turn on the pump. If you are getting power, the next thing to check for is sounds. Can you hear the motor hum or can you hear a click? A humming motor can mean it is the capacitor. Think of the capacitor as a battery (looks like one too) that jumps the motor to start spinning. A capacitor stores up a quick jolt of electricity to start the motor. They can be located in the back of the motor housing or in a hump on the top or side of the unit. If your motor runs but turns itself off after a time, it may be over-heating. Pool pumps use a lot of wattage and need a constant supply. If it is in the middle of a hot day and everyone in your neighborhood has the AC on high there may be a drop of power causing the motor to overheat. Not much you can do at that point but maybe run your pump at night when it is cooler. The second leading cause for this is motor fan failure or vent blockage. On the underside of the motor are vents that can get clogged up with dirt and leaves.pool motor cover Make sure you do not have dirt build up and keep them open and clear. I have run across cases where was just plain old sun light causing the motor to overheat. This is common in the south west and I would recommend getting a motor cover to keep the sun at bay. #4 The motor/pump is making a loud noise. Everyone (and their neighbors) hates a loud swimming pool pump. If your pump is loud, the first thing to do is to listen to it. What kind of sound does it make? If it sounds like there are rocks in it, this can be from it vibrating on the pad it sits on, or it could be cavitation. A piece of rubber mat under it might help to stop the noise. If that is not the case, it may be cavitation. Cavitation happens when the pump cannot get enough water fast enough, or the pump is "starved for water". The pump impeller is spinning too fast with not enough water and starts to beat the air molecules out of the water. If you didn't just install an oversize pump, you will want to check the lines for a clog, or a closed valve. In some cases it may be a clogged filter or impeller. Clear out any obstructions and you should be fine. Now if you pump is screaming (this is what sets off the neighbors) your motor may need new bearings. Bearings are mounted on the pool motor bearings pool motor shaft inside the motor to help reduce the friction as the electro magnates make the motor shaft spin. This is a high wear and tear item within the motor. Although the bearings are cheap (about $15) the labor is intensive. Most motors have 2 different sizes in them and usually take special bearing pullers to remove them. I always recommend taking the motor to a shop and for about $100 you can get a motor refurbished. #5 The motor/pump is sucking in air. Pool pumps are supposed to be air tight. With a clear pump lid, you "should" see no air in the pump basket. This is rarely the case however, small air leaks are common. When the air leak gets too large, however, it can create problems with circulation or keeping the pump primed. The most common causes of a pump air leak include bad thread sealant where the pipe enters the pump, a leaky valve stem on one of the suction valves or a break in the plumbing. Other sources of air leaking into the system include a loose or old pump lid or pump lid o-ring or an ill fitting pump drain plug. All air leaks originate BEFORE the impeller.lemon lime is optional! A good test to locate an Air Leak, and it will sound funny - is to use shaving cream (not gel). Spread the shaving cream over the suction side joints and fittings with the pump on. The pump will try to suck the foam into the pipe because it has less resistance or mass then the water. At the air leak you will start to see the layer of foam dimple as it gets sucked into the system revealing where the leak is. At this point you will know what part needs to be repaired or replaced. So, there you have it - some of the most common reasons for pool pump aggravation. We hope to have helped you through yours!

Types of Pool Algae

Types of Pool Algae Nearly every pool owner has had to deal with algae problems at one time or another. Even with a properly-working filtration system, sanitizers at their recommended levels, and a watchful eye, algae blooms can still develop. Algae spores can enter a pool in a variety of different ways, but is most commonly introduced into a pool through wind, rain, dirt, and even on a swimmer’s body or bathing suit. Keeping algae spores out of your pool is impossible, so it is important to prevent the microscopic spores from turning into unsightly algae blooms. Maintaining clean, algae-free water will help keep your pool and your family happy and healthy, Although there are over 20,000 known species of algae, there are only a few types that of algae that can survive and grow inside the sanitized environment of a swimming pool. Below are the kinds of algae that you might run into in your pool:

Green Algae

This is the most common type of pool algae. Green algae can show up either as discolored spots on your pool wall, or, more commonly, as large floating masses on the pool surface. While not particularly difficult to get rid of, green algae grows very quickly, so if left untreated, it can multiply to cover large areas of pool walls and surfaces.

Algae Pool Pink

Pink algae isn’t really algae at all, but a type of fungus known as Paecilomyces Lilacinus. The fungus forms into small colonies on pool surfaces, and can easily be eliminated through brushing and chlorination.

Black (Blue-Green) Algae

This is the toughest and most resistant type of algae, and it shows up as small, dark spots on the pool walls. Black algae is extremely difficult to get rid of because it buries its roots deep down in the plaster or tile gout, and will continue to grow back as long as the roots remain intact. Black algae also requires a mix of powerful chemical and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

Algae Pool Yellow Mustard Algae

Typically looks like small deposits or sand or dirt, and is usually found in the shady parts of the pool, and on pool steps and equipment like lights or ladders. Mustard algae is resistant to normal chlorine, so it requires a mix of powerful chemicals and vigorous, repeated brushing to eliminate.

Is pH Really That Important? The pH is one of the most important factors in pool water balance, and it should be tested and adjusted on a weekly basis. pH is the measure of how acid/ alkaline the swimming pool water is. A pH of 7.0 is neutral - below 7.0 is acidic, above 7.0 is alkaline. It should be kept within the range of 7.2-7.8. What happens when the pool is too acidic? (pH is low): 1. If your swimming pool is Marbelite or plaster, the pool water will begin to dissolve the surface, creating a roughness which is ideal for pool algae growth. A similar result occurs in the grouting of tiled swimming pools. 2. Metals corrode - and this includes swimming pool equipment, pipe fittings, pump connections, etc. As the swimming pool walls, and metal parts corrode, sulphates are formed. These sulphates are released from the water onto the walls, and floor of the swimming pool causing ugly brown and black stains. 3. Chlorine, which is used as a disinfectant in the swimming pool water, is activated and lost to the atmosphere very quickly. The water is not being sanitised, and we are throwing away our money by adding chlorine when the pH is too low. 4. When we swim, our eyes and nose burn. Our swimwear fades, and perishes. Our skin gets dry and itchy. What happens when the pool is too alkaline? (pH is high): 1. The calcium in the swimming pool water combines with carbonates and forms scale, just like in our kettles. This calcification is seen most at the waterline, where it traps dust and dirt, turning black with time. 2. The swimming pool water starts to become cloudy or murky and it loses its sparkle. Catch yourself buying clarifier frequently? This could be the result of your pH being too high. 3. The calcium carbonate has a tendency to plate out on the sand in the swimming pool filter, effectively turning it into cement. So your filter becomes a cement filter, and loses its ability to trap dirt and other debris from the pool water. 4. As the pH rises, the power of the chlorine to act on foreign particles is lost. At a pH of 8.0 the pool can only use 20% of the chlorine you put in. So 80% of it goes to waste and you would need 5 times as much chlorine to provide the disinfection you need. Swimming pool maintenance The five keys to maintaining water quality in your swimming pool include: Filtration Chlorination pH level Total alkalinity (TA) Calcium hardness. Filtration The water in your pool is pumped through a filter to remove debris and particles. How long you need to run the filter depends on the size of your swimming pool, and the horsepower of your pool pump. If you are unsure, check your instruction manual or consult with a pool maintenance company. Remember, that even when you are filtering your pool according to specifications, about 35 per cent of the water still won't be filtered. Chlorination Chlorine is a chemical that disinfects the water and helps to remove debris. You should use a chlorine stabiliser to extend the chlorine's half-life. Generally, the longer your filtration cycle, the less chlorine you will need. Similarly, the more chlorine you use, the shorter your required filtration cycle. Remember that your chlorine requirements will be affected by a range of factors, including your pump and filter system, water temperature, water level, amount of debris, and the number of swimmers in your pool. pH level The pH level indicates how acidic or alkaline the water is at any given time. A pH level of 7 means that water is neutral; above 7 means the water is alkaline, while below 7 indicates acidity. You should aim for a pH level of between 7 and 7.6. If the water pH is higher than 8, anyone who swims in the pool is at risk of skin rashes, while a pH of lower than 7 can sting the swimmers' eyes. Some of the many factors that can affect your pool's pH level include heavy rain, lots of swimmers, and pool chemicals. Remember to regularly check your pool's pH level. Total alkalinity (TA) Total alkalinity (TA) means the sum of all alkaline chemicals in your water. If TA is too low, the pH balance can become unstable; concrete and painted pool surfaces will also deteriorate over time. TA and pH are interconnected; for example, raising the TA could also raise the pH. Make sure you don't disrupt your pool's pH when adjusting the TA, and vice versa. Calcium hardness Calcium hardness refers to the amount of the mineral calcium dissolved in your water. Low calcium levels will deteriorate pool surfaces, while high calcium levels will leave a 'scum' or scale on surfaces and equipment. General water quality suggestions Be guided by pool professionals, but general suggestions on maintaining good water quality in your swimming pool include: Check your pH and chlorine levels daily. Preferably, these tests should be done before the first swim of the day, to make sure the water quality hasn't altered overnight. In very hot weather, it is a good idea to check the pH, and chlorine twice daily. Remember that heated pools need more chlorine than non-heated pools. Brush, and vacuum your pool on a regular basis. Regularly check the pump, skimmer boxes, and other pool equipment, and repair or replace parts as necessary. For more help visit www.poolhelpusa.com

Salt Water Pool

A salt water or saltwater pool is a swimming pool which is filled with a mild salt solution. Many companies which install pools can construct salt water pools and outfit them with the necessary sanitization systems, and these pools can vary radically in size from small lap pools to large community pools used for recreation. Swimmers sometimes enjoy saltwater pools because the water feels softer and gentler than that in some other types of pools. Salt water pools are not chlorine free, but it is not necessary to add chlorine to the pool. Instead, using a device known as a chlorine generator, the pool makes its own chlorine products for hygiene though electrolysis which breaks down the salt. Periodically, salt must be added to the pool to keep the salt solution strong enough for the chlorine generator to work. When a salt water pool is maintained properly, it should stay clean and safe to use, and it lacks the strong odor associated with chlorinated pools. Setting up a salt water pool can be expensive, as the chlorine generator and associated equipment can be costly. However, the salt used is significantly less expensive than chlorine additives for pools, which can save money in the long term. The pool will also require cleaning and maintenance, just like any other pool, and people who use pool services may want to confirm that their service is accustomed to working with salt water pools. People can install salt water pool systems in existing pools or they can install a brand new pool with a salt water system. The chlorine generator produces enough chlorine to inhibit the growth of bacteria, although the pool can still develop algae which needs to be cleared with a filtration system. Filtration will also clear leaves, debris from the bodies of swimmers, and other materials. Consumers concerned about pool hygiene who dislike the caustic nature of traditionally chlorinated pools may choose a salt water pool as an alternative which is more pleasant to swim in. Others simply enjoy swimming in saltwater. Consumers attached to municipal water and sewer systems may want to check with local authorities about regulations concerning salt water pools. Some municipalities ban the connection of salt water pools to the sewer system, or require people to treat the pool water before draining it into the sewer. A pool installation company should be able to provide consumers interested in salt water pool installation with more information and recommendations. For More Help Go To www.poolhelpusa.comBlue Wave NA390 Standard Pool (Google Affiliate Ad)Intex 57435EP Whale Spray Pool (Google Affiliate Ad)

Not everyone is a professional chemist

Not everyone is a professional chemist, so pool experts recommend you see them first for any problems you encounter. You can head off the issues by taking water samples to the local pool store once a month. “It’s like going to a doctor for a checkup, still want to try it the hands-on way? Here are the reasons behind and quick fixes for the most common pool problems. ALGAE AFFLICTION DESCRIPTION: Probably the most common of pool problems. The surface of the pool is green and swimmers merge looking like swamp monsters. CAUSE: Algae has infested the pool. “90% of the time the cause is that the chlorine level is low SOLUTION: Shock that pool! Perform a shock treatment using three times the normal amount of shock. Couple that with algaecide and the algae will be exterminated. CLOGGED FILTER DESCRIPTION: The pool is starting to build unseemly debris and the filter, when examined, is chock full. CAUSE: Relax; this one is a good thing. It pretty much means the filter is doing its job it’s clogged because the pool was dirty. SOLUTION: Perform some filter maintenance; clean it out each time it’s clogged. At least once a year it should be chemically cleaned to ensure its long functional life, according to. FOAMING FRUSTRATION DESCRIPTION: The pool looks like it is trying to host a foam party and you are not amused. White suds can be seen on the surface. CAUSE: “Most of the foaming we see in pools is from the use of poor algaecide, how do you spot one of these poor algaecides? “They never say “This is a foaming algaecide, “They’re cheaper and, not to pick on anybody, but you see them most often at mass marketers.” SOLUTION: Head back to the store and get an anti-foam agent and be sure to buy future algaecide from a trustworthy pool dealer who can vouch for it. MINERAL MISHAP DESCRIPTION: The pool is either a milk chocolate brown, or a brilliant beautiful teal. Blondes may leave the water with their fair locks green. CAUSE: An abundance of minerals in the water is the root of the problem. Pools with a lot of iron go the brown route, those with more copper take on the teal look with the green hair effect. SOLUTION: Pool stores have different chemicals to remove different minerals from the water, so purchase and use the one that is right for the pool. MURKY WATER DILEMMA DESCRIPTION: The bottom of the pool is a mystery. What could be lurking in its depths? Nobody knows. CAUSE: Improper pH levels, is the traditional cause - and the rain aided the problem. The rain is really acidic in this area and it does affect the pools. SOLUTION: Test the water’s pH levels and adjust accordingly. STAIN AGITATION DESCRIPTION: There is a weird brown stain on the pool’s walls or floor and no one knows where it came from. CAUSE: It could be organic, or the result of high mineral levels (see mineral mishap). Test the water to see by using a sock. First, put a little pH decreaser in the sock, then rub it on the stain. If it removes the stain, make a note of it. If it does not remove the stain, try again but with a chlorine stick in the sock instead of pH decreaser. SOLUTION: This is one for the professionals, present the results of the test to them and let them have at. But do it quickly, as removing the stain may not be possible. “It’s like your favorite article of clothing that gets stained. The longer it’s left untreated, the harder the stain will be to get out. For more help go to WWW.POOLHELPUSA.COM